Monday, 22 December 2014

The slow and simple process of Etching on a zinc plate

The process of Etching on Zinc Plate –

1.    Clean the plate with Brasso and steel wool or 0 no. polish paper. Then wash the plate with face wash or soap water till the fingerprint marks are disappeared.
2.    Then bevel the edges of the plate (of the working side) with a filer up to 2mm. Hold the filer 45o to file and bevel the sharp edges of the zinc plate.
3.    After this, scrape out the remaining unsteady and sharp sides with a burnisher or with the help of a steel scale.
4.    Clean the plate once again to remove unnecessary marks.
5.    The ground is the main ingredient for Etching. This consists of two types – soft ground and hard ground.
6.    The soft ground contains some highly poisonous chemicals like Bee Wax, Bitumen Powder, Rosin Powder, Benzene, etc. It is made with the combination in a certain proportion of bee wax, bitumen powder, rosin powder, etc. Benzene is used to clean the plate. But it evaporates immediately. So, I suggest using kerosene.
7.    The hard ground is aka Black Japan. It is an acid proof chemical and was used in the early age of car productions. This chemical was used to prevent car chassis from rusting. In etching, the plate is coated with a moderate or thin layer of Black Japan. Then it is left to dry for 1-1 ½ hours. Benzene can be used to make Black Japan thinner.
8.    After it dries completely, the next thing you need is a needle. It is available in major stationary stores. With the help of a needle, you can scrape out your sketch in line work for the first proof impression or as you wish to draw. (Not a compulsion for line work.)
9. The next thing you need is Nitric Acid, which is highly dangerous, inflammable, and with toxic fumes. You have to handle the acid by wearing surgical hand gloves, eye gear (goggles), mask etc.
10.      You have to take a plastic mug or some small plastic vessel, i.e. half of a plastic bottle to handle the acid, because acid reacts with metals.. The proportion of acid with water to be taken is 1 : 8 or 1 : 10.    Prepare the acid mix in a plastic tub.
11.    So, when you finish drawing the sketch on the plate, you need to etch the sketch to take impression on the paper. Before dipping the plate into the acid, you have to cover the plate with cello tape from the back side, that will save your plate from back side. Here, you have to dip the plate in the acid mixture. You have to decide the timing for acid exposure, because if you want your lines look light, you have to keep the plate for about 1 minute. And if you want deep and dark lines, you have to keep the plate in acid for more time, i.e. 2 - 4/5 minutes. If you want to make emboss of the uncovered part, you have to wait for up to 10–15 minutes.
12.      When you keep the plate in acid, the next thing to be done is to stir the acid on the plate, as it makes bubbles on the uncovered part of the plate. This is to be done with the help of a crow feather. In time, keep checking the depth of your lines with the help of the needle.
13.     When you think that you have achieved the required intensity of lines, take out the plate from the acid. Wash the plate under forced water tap. After washing, clean the plate with benzene or kerosene thoroughly.
14.   Next thing is to prepare the color ink for the impression. Make the ink more semi-liquid as possible by mixing linseed oil with it. This will help to apply the ink evenly, fast and deeply into the etched lines of the sketch. Apply the ink on the required etched areas of the plate.
15.    After applying ink, wipe out the entire ink present on the plate with the help of news papers or butter papers. While wiping, do not use fingertips, instead use the lower side of the palm. This technique does not leave any deep fingerprints on the plate after wiping. Clean the plate thoroughly.
16.   While wiping the plate, tell someone to keep a paper ready by dipping it in water. Dip the paper in water for about 1–2 minutes or as you wish (but not for too long.)
17.    Take out the paper and blot with a sponge or a Turkish towel. Blot the paper thoroughly.
18.   Keep the press ready by arranging a rough paper under the plate. Keep the plate in the position you want. Now, roll the paper on the opposite side which you blotted minutes before.
19.   Align the final paper with the plate and roll over the paper from the lower side of the plate, so that it aligns correctly with the plate.
20.   Put another rough paper if required over the final paper. Then put the felts of the press on the papers. Clear the folds on the felts. Then adjust the pressure of the press. Now roll the press over the plate for two times if required, or else rolling once is sufficient.
21.  Remove all the felts and the rough paper from the press. Take out the final paper very slowly and steadily. Your Line Etching impression is ready !!!
22.  Now repeat the same procedure for further impressions. If you don’t want a part to be etched, cover that part with Black Japan. You can make gradations with the help of this process without using ‘Aquatint’.

Important tips –
Ø   Cleanliness is must in print making. So, you can use chalk powder if your hands are covered with ink. But wash hand thoroughly before taking each impression.
Ø   If you are using Rosin powder for doing aquatint, please wear the essential protective gears like goggles, masks etc.
Ø   Acid should be handled with utmost care. Wear the essential protective gears like gloves, goggles, masks etc. If the gloves tear, change the gloves immediately.
Ø   Last thing is etching is a slow and steady process, so don’t rush.
Stores for getting the etching material –

1. Needles, papers, sponges, knives, brush and other stationary - S.P. Stationers, Back market, behind Bharati Vidyapeeth, Dhankawadi, Pune. 
2.  Filer, Black Japan – any local hardware store.
3. Benzene – Anand Chemical Shoppee, on Alka Talkies – Tulshibaug road, Pune. (on left side after 4-5 shops).
A chemical shoppee ahead of Anand Chemical Shoppee (leaving 3-4 shops on left side).
4.  Bee wax, bitumen powder, nitric acid – P.H. Gandhi Chemical Shoppee, Mandai. 
5.  Burnisher – Bohari Ali.


For more information, you can check out the videos available on YouTube.com




Raajeev Gandhi,
M.F.A. (Graphic)
Gandhi Computers, Pune – 411041

Contact - 9552324111 / 020 24350026

Thank you !!!




Friday, 26 September 2014

My new Restoration Work - Cricket Bat...!

Hi Friends,

     I am currently restoring a cricket bat for a 7 year old naughty boy !!! Here are some tips for restoring wooden things...

1. Make the corners of the wooden surface smooth with a filer.
2. Then polish the surface with a polish paper - any number (size)
3. If there are some dents on the surface, then put fevicol on it. Smoothly run it with a flat metal or plastic piece.. Make sure that it is filled properly in the holes or dents and see to it that it levels the surface.
4. Once it is leveled, polish it again with the polish paper to make the surface smooth, Then clean the surface with a soft cloth.
5. Once the surface is cleaned, polish the surface with linseed oil.
6. Then let it dry thoroughly for at least 6-8 hours..
7. When the oil is dried, the grains of the wooden surface comes to life as an antique piece of wood.
8. Coat the surface 2 times using Varnish / Clear Lacquer with a cotton cloth... Let it dry for 2 days in hot sun..
9. You will get a nice and Sexy wooden surface, as it is brought in stock condition from the shop ..!

So here, I am posting a picture of the project in the starting condition..
Please read the instruction, see the pictures and restore your own things at home !!!

I will post the pictures of the restored  bat in 3-4 days..

Till then, enjoy my blogs and enjoy your life !!!